Derby Application and Rules
Battle at the Bluff sat june 10th
Punishment at the peak sat aug 5th
Call or text any questions to
Del McQuidy at (760)468-254
- Participating driver must be at least 16 years of age, as evidence by the date of birth on valid driver operator’s license. Furthermore drivers under the age of 18 must have a release form signed by a parent or guardian.
- Vehicle must meet all rules of the demolition derby and pass inspection by demolition derby officials.
- Driver must wear an approved D.O.T. helmet and seat belt upon entering the arena and during the demolition derby.
- Driver must not be under the influence of any substance, including alcohol and drugs that may impair the driver’s physical or mental abilities.
- Driver must provide proof of ownership (i.e.; Valid Title) for the vehicle driven in the demolition derby.
- All drivers and legal guardian will be required to sign this waiver and release liability, which must be witnessed, prior to the beginning of the event or participation will be denied.
- Driver understands and agrees that punishment at the peak demolition derby staff and officials retain the right to refuse participation to anyone at their sole discretion, if they deem it necessary for any reason, and in the best interests of the demolition derby and other participants.
ACKNOWLEDGMENT, WAIVER AND RELEASE OF LIABILITY
The undersigned hereby states that he/she has read and completely understands all of the rules for participation in the Demolition Derby as outlined above and hereby agrees to fully comply with such rules. I understand and am aware that a Demolition Derby is an inherently dangerous activity and I agree to personally assume the risks of participation. In consideration of being permitted to participate in this Demolition Derby, the undersigned for himself, his personal representative, heirs, and next of kin hereby releases, waives, discharges, covenants not to sue and holds harmless and indemnify Whiplash Racing LLC, Tooele County, Tooele County Fair Board, Punishment At The Peak Demolition Derby staff and or officials from and against all loss or damage and any claim or demands on account of injury or property damage or death to the undersigned due to any cause resulting from participation in the Demolition Derby.
Print Name of Participant ____________________________________________________
Signature of Participant _______________________________Date______________________
Signature of Parent or Legal Guardian_________________________ Date_________________
Signature of Witness__________________________________ Date_______________________
- Only the following years of cars are eligible. 74 and newer midsize GMs, 77 and newer full size GM’s, 1974 to 2002 Ford’s, 74 and newer Dobas/magnums/sport fury’s and all other 79 and newer Mopar’s.
- Cars must have VIN tags visible during inspection.
- Doors or roof sign must have numbers of at least 18 inches tall, and of contrasting colors to the car.
- No 2003 and newer fords.
- All bodies must be mounted on stock OEM frames for that year and make of car.
- ALL DIMENSIONS GIVEN IN THESES RULES ARE MAXIMUM UNLESS WRITTEN OTHERWISE. DO NOT EXCEED THEM.
- NO PAINTING, BUFFING, OILING OR UNDERCOATING OF FRAMES. THESE CARS WILL NOT BE INSPECTED OR ALLOWED TO COMPETE.
- No obscene words or graphics on cars, this is a family event.
- Any decorations used must be made out of cardboard or foam or removed before competing. No zip screws, foam filler, or adhesive bonds or #9 wires may be used.
- All Drivers must pick up trophies, earnings and prizes at the completion of the event, or forfeit them. They will not be available after that date.
- We reserve the right to re-inspect any car at any time before, during or after initial inspection.
- You may be asked to cut areas of question open before, during or after the derby if needed.
- Be advised that by participating in this event you and your car may be filmed. And that the use of your image, likeness, voice and actions for photo, video and print use for sales, marketing, TV and movie use is possible.
- All glass, plastic and pot metal must be removed. Nothing may remain in the bottoms of the trunk or doors. Rear seats in all cars must be removed.
- All outer hardware must be removed – door handles, mirrors, chrome, moldings, screws, fiberglass, etc.
- Driver door must be padded on the inside.
- Front seats must be securely bolted to the floor; however, these bolts may NOT go thru the frame! You must have a functioning seat belt.
- All flammable materials must be removed from the car other than safety padding and the driver’s seat.
- No adding weight to the vehicle. No packing, stuffing of frames, trunks, passenger doors or under floor decking.
- No sedagoning.
- All trailer hitches must be removed
CAGES & DOOR BARS:
- You may use channel or tubing up to 6″ OD for all interior bars.
- Seat bar must be no further than 6″ behind the seat. All bars must be straight pieces no contoured pieces.
- Interior door bars may not extend past the dash or seat bar.
- A 36” wide fuel cell protector is allowed but must be centered in the back seat area. There must be a 2” space between the back bar and all sheet metal and It may not be attached to anything other than back seat bar. All interior sheet metal must remain in stock position. Do not pound!
- You may add 2 VERTICAL down bars on the rear seat bar only, welded to your door bar and to the floor sheet metal. These bars may not attach to or conceal a body mount.
- No kickers, angled or otherwise. NO cage components may be welded to the frame.
- All horizontal cage components must be at least 8″ off the floor of the car. Gas tank protector only may be no closer than 3” off the floor, measured at the body bolt elevation.
- All cage components must be in the interior of the car, not inside the door structure with the exception of the driver’s side. The driver’s door bar may be inside the door structure or on the outside of the driver’s door only to allow more room for driver’s safety.
- If drivers bar is outside the door it may only be 6” past the driver’s exterior door seams and be no wider than 10 inches.
HALO OR ROLLOVER BARS:
- You MUST add a halo bar or an upright post to the cage components listed above. It may not exceed 6″ in diameter.
- Halo bars may be attached to the floor sheet metal.
- Halo bars must be in a direct vertical line with the seat bar.
- Halo bars may NOT be angled toward the rear of the car. They must be vertical.
- Upright post must be located AWAY from the drivers head area.
- Upright post must have a 4” x 4” plate attached to the roof, welded or bolted.
- Upright post must be mounted vertically and in such a way that it will not bend. (Ex. Gusseted)
Halo bar must be welded or bolted to the roof sheet metal.
- Door seams must be welded using rolled rod no bigger than ½” or flat strap no bigger than 2” wide by 1/4” thick.
- You may smash the inner and outer door skin together of the window opening only and weld them solid. You may use the same filler as in welding the door seems but no longer than the window opening per door.
- Driver’s door and driver’s side of front windshield may have window fabric netting or chicken wire type material for driver’s safety. NO other windows may have netting.
- Front doors may be skinned with 1/8 inch plate, plate may exceed door seams but no more than 3”
- You may weld a plate 10″ x 1/4″ across the front driver’s door for protection and not to exceed 6″ beyond the front door seams. NO GRADER BLADES. These plates must be in the center of the door run horizontally
- You must have at least one, but no more than two window bars in the windshield and rear window openings.
- Window bars may not be bigger than 2” x 2” x 36”.
- Bars may only be attached by welding directly to the sheet metal with a mounting plate no bigger than 4”x 4” x ¼”.
- If using rear window bars in a Station Wagon tailgate windows are treated as a rear window, but must be mounted at the top of the tailgate, and tailgate must be in original closed position.
- No wiring or chaining of any window openings.
- Window bars may not be attached to the halo bar or any cage components.
- NO frame welding allowed other than what is specified in the bumper/bumper bracket, frame, frame & body bolting and Engine rules.
- No plating, stuffing, dowel pinning, heat treating or foam filling of frames allowed. Do NOT paint or undercoat your frame or you will not even be inspected.
- You may weld your motor mounts to the engine cradle only.
- You are allowed to weld one 8” long piece of 3”x 3” angle iron to each side of the frame to mount your transmission cross member. Cross member must be centered on angle iron.
- Rear frame rails may not be shortened.
- You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending, but do NOT weld the cut.
- You may chain your axle to the frame hump with one wrap per frame rail. Chain may not be welded.
- Front of frame may be shortened no more than the front most edge of the core support. Core support must remain in stock position and location.
- K frame Mopar’s are allowed to wrap K frame to the frame in front of the motor with two wraps of chain around the frame only.
- You may tilt 80’s and newer style cars in one of the 3 following ways.
- You may cold pitch. No added metal.
- You may cut the front and top inside seams of the crush box, pull the front end down and re-weld. Only re-weld the two seams, do not re-weld any other crush box seams, no added metal.
- You may tilt at the transmission cross member.
FRAME & BODY BOLTING:
- You are allowed 2 bolts not to exceed 1” in diameter to be placed thru the hood, front core support and frame. They may be double nutted and/or welded to the frame no more than 5”, but must be straight. 3” washers may be used.
- You may only weld the washers on the top outside of the hood and trunk lid.
- Chrysler products may run 1″ bolts behind the radiator support. Bolts may be welded to 5” of the frame but must be straight. If going through the frame a hole must be drilled to accommodate the bolt. 3” washers may be used.
- In the trunk you are allowed 2 bolts not to exceed 1” in diameter to be placed thru the trunk lid, trunk pan and frame. They may be double nutted and/or welded to 5” of the frame. Bolts must be straight. 3” washers may be used.
- Bolts may not be “U”d except in wagons, in which case it may be bent up to a 90 deg, going thru the tail gate.
- Body mounts may be removed and bolts replaced with up to a ½” x 6” bolt with a max 2.5” washer and nut.
- You may add 2 5/8” x 8” body bolts in the position of your choice from the fire wall to the rear bumper. 2 1/2” washers may be used.
- If your station wagon came with the body bolts in the humps these are your 2 additional mounts. You will NOT be allowed to add more mounts.
- If you decide to bolt your coil springs in place thru the frame and the rear package tray, these will count as your added mounts.
- Wagons are NOT permitted to run any bolts thru the pillars or roof.
BUMPERS & BUMPER BRACKETS:
- Stock O.E.M. bumpers off of passenger cars may be used.
- A Maximum 5” by 5” square tube may be used, but must be straight, and cannot extend more than 10” from the outside of the frame. No skinning of the bumper is allowed but additional metal may be added to inside of the tube only.
- Bumpers may be cut so they don’t smash into the tires during the event. Chrome may be welded to the inner bumper box. Additional metal may be used internally only for structural reinforcement.
- Bumpers may be flipped.
- Bumpers may be welded to the brackets and the frame only.
- Only one bumper bracket per frame rail is allowed, front bracket can be welded and/or bolted no more than 14” from the front of the frame.
- You may use in place of shock tubes an 18” pipe or square tube up to 3” O.D. 3/16” max wall thickness. And must be open ended on the A-arm side of the tube.
- If swapping bumper and brackets:
- You may only use the factory O.E.M. mounting hardware that was on the car originally or one style of car bracket hardware and car bumper. All other hardware must be removed. (Ex. Chrysler bracket with GM bumper on a Ford is allowed)
- Shock tube will be considered the bracket if disassembled from the mounting hardware. If this is done then rule “11” applies.
- Mounting brackets may not be attached to the Cordoba type sub or k-frame in any way.
- Front and rear bumper straps can be no longer than 36”, or bigger than 2” wide x ¼” thick.
- If using an aluminum beam bumper you may weld your front straps around and to the bottom of the frame or bumper brackets. No more than 3” of strap may be welded or connected to the frame.
- If using FRAME/BODY bolts. Straps may have a hole burned thru it and be placed over the bolt.
- You may also use 3/8” chain instead of straps to secure your bumpers. Only two chains per bumper may be used. It may loop thru the hood or trunk using only two wraps and may not be welded at any point.
- If using a chain you may weld a washer no larger than 3” to the top of the hood to run the chain thru to prevent tearing.
HOODS & TRUNK LIDS:
- Trunk lids and hoods must remain 50% in the stock location. Wagon tailgates will be treated as a trunk.
- You may fasten either in one of the following 2 ways:
- You may fully weld the exterior original trunk lid and hood seam with a max 2″ x ¼” strap or ½” rolled rod/rebar. Hood seam on dash side may be welded to the cowl also.
- You may use two 8” long by ¼” thick by 2” wide pieces of angle back to back, one welded to the trunk lid the other to the body, these are to be bolted (not welded) to each other with two ½” inch bolts. You may have 8 of these. If bolting the hood you may replace of two angle iron sets and using 1 bolt per wheel well to go thru the hood and inner fender well only above the tire. This bolt is not to exceed 1” in diameter and be no more than 8” long or use a washer bigger than 3 inches.
- Any engine may be used in any car, but it must be mounted within 5″ of the original motor.
- You may cut a hole in the firewall to accommodate the engine, within reason.
- Holes bigger than 10” x 10” in the firewall must be covered with tin or heavy rubber.
- If using stock motor mounts:
- You may weld a gusset or chain the motor from the motor mounts to the factory engine cradle only – Chains may not be higher than the top of the stock engine mount cup. 1 Chain or gusset per side, 3/8” max.
- Two additional motor tie downs may be used. No more than one tie down per side. If the straps are used they may only be welded to 3” of the frame per side. The section that is welded to the frame may not be any thicker than ¼” x 2” wide, and must be located no more than 3” at its furtherst point in the front of the A-arm.
DISTRIBUTOR PROTECTORS & CRADLES:
- No Distributor protectors are allowed.
- Lower engine mounting cradles with crank protectors are allowed. Crank protector may only cover lower half of the crank, and can’t exceed front of the pully by more than 4”.
- Cradles may be fastened to the factory engine frame cross member only. No part of the cradle may be attached to or touch the frame rails. If after the race the cradle is touching the frame, it will be the official’s call to determine whether it added structural strength to the car. If it is determined to have done this, the car will be disqualified.
- If using a cradle no motor tie downs may be used. As the cradles are designed to securely mount engines in the cars and are stronger than the stock mounts.
TRANSMISSIONS & TRANSMISSION PROTECTORS:
- Transmission coolers may be used, but they must be secured in such a way to prevent injury.
- Metal, high pressure or braided lines must be used. No fuel or low-pressure lines may be used.
- Coolers must be secured in a container in the passenger compartment or behind the seat of the car.
- A 3 bar transmission protector is allowed with no cross plating and may not exceed the bell housing shape by more than 2 inches.
- An Ultra Type bell may be used but can only be attached to the transmission and may not be in or come in contact with the frame rails.
- If running a transmission protector, Steel bell housing or Steel Tail Shaft it may only be attached to the cross member with a stock OEM rubber mount or chained down.
- If using either a transmission protector and/or an Ultra Bell, you MUST use a 2” x 2” O.D. square tube ¼” wall max thickness cross member. Cross member must have one 1/2” inspection hole within one foot of center in the bottom.
- New transmission cross members must be within 5” of original mounts.
- Transmission Protectors may REST on the transmission cross member no more than 5 inches in the center of the cross member, but may not be attached in any way to the cross member.
- Slider drivelines are allowed and a driveline brake is permitted.
- Coil to leaf spring conversions are allowed.
- On cars using COIL springs, you may plate the outside of the rear frame humps using one 22” x 5” by ¼” plate per frame rail. Plate must follow the curve of the hump and not exceed the frame in any way. Plate must have ½ “ inspection hole in the center of the hump and centered in the plate, hole may not be welded.
- Ball joints, spindles, drag link, pitman arms, gear boxes, upper front control arms: may only be swapped with any make model of a factory car type and strength parts. All parts must bolt only to factory attachment points for that car, example: you may not cut and fabricate your own mounts.
- You may change coil springs.
- Coil springs may be welded to the AXLE only.
- You may weld or bolt down your A arms. You are allowed either one 1” x 3” by ¼” straps on each side of the A-arm, or one bolt per frame rail. Bolts must be in the middle of the A-arm. Do not weld entire A-arm down.
- Upper and lower control arms may NOT be reinforced.
- After market steering columns are allowed.
- You are allowed a maximum of 9 leafs 2 ½” wide by 5/16” thick, or 5 leafs 2 ½” wide by 3/8” thick.
- 48” minimum spring length measured from bolt to bolt.
- Each leaf below the main must be 4” shorter than the previous leaf spring. This will give you a 2″ stagger on each end of each leaf.
- 2nd spring under the main is to start no longer than inside of curved eye socket of main leaf.
- 4 clamps per leaf spring, 2 in front of the axle, 2 behind the axle. This includes factory clamps.
- Clamps can be 2” x 5 x ¼”.
- No welding on the spring pack.
- No flat sprung cars – leaf pack must have a minimum of 2″ of arch.
- No duct taping of springs prior to inspection.
- If hard mounting leaf springs you may use 3 ½” x 3 ½” x ¼” square tubing no longer than 3”, or 2 pieces of 3” x 6” x ¼” plate to form a shackle.
- 8 lug truck axles will be allowed.
- Any 5 lug rear end may be used.
- You may use any type of rear end (Ford / Mopar / GM / Hybrid).
- No part of rear end may strengthen the car’s frame or body in any way.
- You may tilt the rear end by lengthening or shortening the trailing arms. Trailing arms must be of passenger car origin and must operate. Trailing arms may be reinforced but must be OEM origin.
- Rear end braces are allowed, but they may serve no purpose other than to strengthen the rear end housing. They may not extend from the rear end further than 6” and may not be higher than the top of the axle tube.
CUTOUTS & WHEEL WELLS:
- You may use 3” x 3/8” bolts and 1 ½” washers around any hood cut out, bolts must be spaced 12” apart. These bolts may NOT be installed in any area other than the immediate perimeter of the cut out.
- Bolts cannot be any further than 3” from edge of cutout.
- NO welding of cut outs is allowed.
- If Hood is welded or bolted you must have a minimum of a 30” x 30” opening for inspection If your hood cut out is smaller than 30”, your hood must be off for inspection.
- You may have up to three 3/8″ bolts and 1 ½” washers in each wheel opening.
- Wheel wells may be cut out or rolled up for tire clearance.
- Hood cut out may not be welded to bumper.
- Front fender metal in front of the tire may be cut off or bent up to the inner structure and bolted with three 3/8” bolts and 1 ½” washers.
- Skid plates are allowed. They must be separate plates for the engine and the transmission.
- NO full-length skid plates.
- NO bolting or welding the skid plate to the frame.
- If skid plate is determined to strengthen the car it will be disqualified.
RADIATORS & RADIATOR SUPPORTS:
- Only OEM style passenger car radiators may be used. Aluminum racing rads of the same style may be used.
- Radiator must be attached to the core support.
- Radiators may be mounted in such away to hold the radiator in place, not strengthen the core support. No added metal may be used to mount the radiator. If welding radiator in place you may use four 1” welds, one per corner.
- You may not add cooling capacity. No supplemental cooling devices allowed (electric fans are allowed).
- If the arena allows, engine coolants may be used. Call promoter for approval.
- Radiator loops may be used.
- Radiator supports must remain in the stock location and position.
- Radiator core support seam welding is NOT allowed.
- Upper radiator supports may be welded to the hood using 6” of weld only if the 1” frame/body bolts DO NOT go thru the upper core support.
- Radiator supports may not be welded to the frame, bumper brackets or bumpers.
- If when the body mount is located in front of the core, that body mount may be removed but the original bolt or new bolt of same size must be used.
- If using anything to protect the radiator such as a condenser or expanded metal, it may be tie wired to the core support only.
- Radiator fin area only may be SLEEVED with a light piece of expanded metal. It may only be attached to the radiator not the core support.
FUEL DELIVERY SYSTEMS:
- Metal fuel tanks are recommended. If using a plastic tank, the lower half must be concealed in a minimum ¼” plate box.
- 7 gallon tanks max may be used.
- Original gas tanks must be removed from the car.
- You must have the gas tank securely mounted behind the driver’s seat, and it must be covered. No seat belts or pull tie straps may be used.
- Fuel lines must run inside the car, not under the car along the frame.
- Automotive pump gas only, NO ALCOHOL.
- Electric fuel pumps are allowed, but must have an on/off switch near the steering wheel.
TIRES & BRAKES:
- You may use any tire up to 32” tall. 4 wheels max per car. No duals.
- No split rims or studded tires.
- Valve stem protectors are allowed but wheel weights must be removed.
- Doubled or flappers may be used. NO foam filled tires.
- All cars must be able to demonstrate the ability to stop at any time. If your brakes do not work, you will not compete.
- Weld in wheel centers are allowed.
- Only one battery of any type may be used.
- They must be secured inside the car in front of the passenger seat and covered, unless you are using a gel cell battery.
- Battery box must be made out of metal! It must be bolted to the floor; bolts may not go thru the frame. Seat belts or pull type tie downs may not be used.
- No components to include, gas pedal, battery boxes, etc may be welded, you must bolt only and bolts may not go through the frame.
- Body creasing, enhancing of existing bodylines and addition of body lines is allowed to the sides of the car only. Do not fold the metal over to create a doubled effect; any spot with 4 layers of sheet metal will be torched out completely, with the exception of fender wells and hood cut outs. Trunk lid seams must be clearly visible and accessible.
- No created seams on hoods trunks or body may be welded.
- No doubling of body panels allowed.
- No inner seam welding other then the front firewall floor seam, no filler may be used.
- Inner panels of a wagon may be secured by four 4” welds per panel seam, and a 15” inspection hole must be made for inspection.
- No other seam welding other than what has been specified.
- Holes may be cut in the floor & firewall to accommodate the shifter, fuel lines, and transmission lines.
- Body rust may be repaired by welding sheet metal of the same thickness covering only the area in disrepair.
- Official’s decisions are final.
- You will be given one (1) opportunity to correct items on your car.
- Each car gets a maximum of 2 times thru inspection.
- Cars may be impounded after inspection and staged in a secure location depending on the show.
- Do not come to the inspection line if you are not done preparing your car.
- Any added or welded metal plate/rod or material not specifically covered in the rules will be removed completely as well as the surrounding metal.
PRE-RUN/FEATURE & GRUDGE MATCH CAR PREPARATION:
- The following rules apply to previously run derby cars only. The intention of these rules is to help you make your pre-run car competitive with fresh cars. The idea is to repair damaged areas only and return the car to as close to “stock” condition as possible. This is not an opportunity to plate or reinforce your car! If we feel that you have pushed the limits of these guidelines, you will not be able to compete! Inspection officials will use discretion and all decisions will be final. Call and ask before you fix something that is not outlined in this section. Absolutely NO ADDED METAL other than what is specified below!
- You may patch any hole in the doors or floor of the car for SAFETY . You must use sheet metal. And your patch may only be 2” larger than the hole you are patching.
- Frame repairs on pre-run cars are allowed to repair OBVIOUSLY damaged areas of the frame using eight total 6” by 4” max ¼” thick pates. 4 per frame rail may be used; of which, 2 may be used in front of transmission cross member and two may be used behind the transmission cross member.
- Plates may be bent and cut but excess may not be used elsewhere
- Plates and weld must be separated by 1”
- Patch mayNOT be welded to ANY other part of the car. (Body, bumper, bumper bracket, core support, inner fender, all thread, etc…) Patch may be welded only! NO BOLTS! No other frame welding will be allowed! All other repairs made to the frame will be cut and/or removed.
- Patched area must show signs of obvious damage.
- You may reinforce damaged steering components on pre run cars only using one piece of 1”x 1” x 1/8” angle, but you must use the O.E.M. tie rod and drag links.(upper and lower control arms are not steering components)
- No replacing of sheet metal components prior to the grudge or the feature except for safety purposes (ex. Torn open door).
- Main event cars may be impounded depending on the show.
- All cars May be re-inspected after the Main event.
If you have other pre-run questions, call first before you fix it!
OVERALL SAFETY IS OUR GOAL AND WILL BE DETERMINED
BY THE TRACK OFFICIALS!
- Drivers must remain in the vehicle with helmet (D.O.T. full face helmet), seatbelt and eye protection on until notified by an official that it is safe to exit the vehicle.
- Driver’s door hits are illegal. If the hit is deemed by TWO official’s to be careless or intentional, you will be disqualified. If you use your driver’s door as a defense, we will not enforce this rule. If you use the door defense repeatedly you will be disqualified.
- No hot roding in the pits. Keep it at an idle, you will be disqualified. THIS IS A SAFETY ISSUE FOR ALL.
- Any car deemed unsafe will be cause for disqualification.
- There is a 2 fire rule in a heat. Upon the 2nd fire you will be out of the heat; however, your time will continue to run as if you were stuck. If you must be removed from your car for any reason, your time will run out accordingly.
- Sandbagging is not tolerated. Locking up the brakes prior to a hit for anything other than a driver’s door can be a cause for disqualification. Heat may be stopped and warnings given.
- You must make AGGRESSIVE HIT within the allotted time. You will not be given any warnings; you will just be timed out. You must be able to make an unassisted hit with at least a third of a car length. Rocking back and forth is not considered a hit.
- No intentional hitting of a non-flagged car.
- If a car is flipped or rolled over you will not be allowed to compete for the rest of that heat. Your time will continue as if you were stuck
- Any driver or pit crew caught tampering with another drivers car will be disqualified.
- No pit crews will be allowed to enter the arena after a heat unless cleared by the officials.
- Drivers must wear at a minimum long pants, long sleeved shirts and boots. Fire suits are preferred.
- Once you have been timed out you may not help another driver or move your car. If you do the driver you help will be disqualified. If a driver enters 2 cars, he must drive both cars in the heats. If both cars qualify he may choose which car he will drive, a designated second driver must be noted at the start of the derby, sign appropriate waiver and attend the drivers meeting.
- Team driving will not be tolerated.
- THERE IS NO ALCOHOL IN THE PITS. This includes pit crews. If you or ANY of your crew is caught with alcohol, you will be disqualified.
- Any unsportsmanlike conduct will result in disqualification and/or removal from the arena.
- All cars are subject to a post race inspection before any prize money is awarded.
- In the event of a tie in the main event, the money will be split and the trophy’s flipped for.
- All official calls are final! There is NO protest rule. Any driver, pit crew or family members arguing with the officials or staff will result in that driver’s disqualification. No calls will be overturned.
Any questions, CALL FIRST. Don’t assume anything. The Officials decision on all rules and safety are final!